Baby Union Jack

I did this quilt off a quilt blog I found online. I did a few alterations to try and make it look more authentic. And had a few miss cuts that messed some of that up. oopps! For parents that love all things British, and had a "super hero" theme for the baby's room, it was a well received one-of-a-kind gift.

Made with all cotton materials purchased at JoAnn Crafts. Straight line quilted with clear thread.

Completed - September 20, 2013

Kohn Baby Quilt

PATTERN:

Bargello

FABRIC:

Sea Glass Tonga

Purchased from Fat Quarter Shop

With additional batik fabric purchased at Patches and Petals in Barneville, WI

http://patchesandpetals.com

BATTING:

Warm n Natural

Low loft

100% Cotton

JoAnn Fabrics

DETAILS:

Quilted in a meandering pattern with green variegated thread.

Top completed – May 2013

Bargello Baby Quilt Instructions

Bargello: Baby Quilt Size

Materials

Inspired by Rolling Prairie From Designer Mabeth Oxenreider

1—2-1/2x42" strip each of 17 assorted prints: for the quilt top

1/2 yard fabric: border

1/2 yard fabric: binding

1-1/2 yards fabric: backing

Batting

Finished top: 35.5 x 34.5 [before border is added]

Cut Fabrics

From each assorted print 2-1/2x42" strip, cut:

2—2-1/2x20" strips [cut the full strips in half]

Border: cut 4 – 2 ½” strips

Binding: cut 4 – 3 ½” strips

Prepare Fabric Bands

1. Lay out a 2-1/2x20" strip from each of the 17 assorted prints in a pleasing manner. (Consider making a chart showing fabric placement and labeling fabrics 1 through 17 to avoid confusion when assembling strip sets and quilt top.)

2. Join strips to make strip set A. Press all seams toward fabric 1. To avoid a strip set that curves, alternate the sewing direction as you add each strip. Add one strip sewing from top to bottom, then add the next strip sewing from bottom to top, and so on.

3. Join ends of strip set A —fabrics 1 and 17—to make an A tube.

4. Cut the A tube into assorted-width bands to use for making the odd-numbered rows. Cut one layer of the tube at a time. To do this, smooth out the tube carefully on your rotary-cutting mat and cut only as much as you’re comfortable with at a time. Rotate the tube and continue cutting from where you left off.

3-1/2"-wide A band

3-1/4"-wide A band

3"-wide A band

2-3/4"-wide A band

2-1/2"-wide A band

2-1/4"-wide A band

2"-wide A band

1-3/4"-wide A band

5. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to make an identical strip set; label this strip set B. Press all seams toward fabric 17, which ensures that seams will abut when assembling quilt top.

6. Join ends of strip set B to make a B tube.

7. Cut the B tube into assorted-width bands to use for making the even-numbered rows. Use the same widths as set A.

Assemble Quilt Top

1. Select an A band (we used a 1-3/4"-wide A band). Remove stitches joining fabrics 1 and 17 to make row 1. Lay the row horizontally on a design wall or large flat surface with fabric 1 at the left-hand edge.

2. Select a B band (we used a 1-3/4"-wide B band). Remove stitches joining fabrics 1 and 2 to make row 2. Lay row 2 below row 1 with fabric 2 at the left-hand edge.

3. Select an A band (we used a 2"-wide A band). Remove stitches joining fabrics 2 and 3 to make row 3. Lay row 3 below row 2 with fabric 3 at the left-hand edge.

4. Continue in same manner, using A bands for odd-numbered rows and B bands for even-numbered rows.

5. Join rows. Press seams in one direction.

Finish Quilt

Add border. Layer quilt top, batting, and backing; baste. Quilt as desired. Bind with binding strips.

Super Star - Hide ‘n’ Seek

PATTERN:

Hide ‘n’ Seek

From “Strip-Smart Quilts”

By Kathy Brown

2011

FABRIC:

Purchased from Fat Quarter Shop

Super Star Rolie Polie [My Mind’s Eye for Riley Blake Designs]

Additional yardage from JoAnn Crafts

BATTING:

Soft n Crafty

Low Loft

Polyester

JoAnn Fabrics

DETAILS:

Quilted in swirls, following pattern using blue thread.

Top completed – February 2013

Multi - Hide 'n Seek

PATTERN:

Hide ‘n’ Seek

From “Strip-Smart Quilts”

By Kathy Brown

2011

FABRIC:

Purchased from Fat Quarter Shop

Vintage Modern Jelly Roll

White Bella Solids Jelly Roll

Sky – Vintage Modern Cotton (yardage)

BATTING:

Soft n Natural

Extra Loft

Polyester

JoAnn Fabrics

DETAILS:

Quilted in straight lines, following pattern using white thread. Backed with white cotton.

Top completed – December 2012

Red Diamond - Hide 'n Seek

PATTERN:

Hide ‘n’ Seek

From “Strip-Smart Quilts”

By Kathy Brown

2011

FABRIC:

Purchased from Fat Quarter Shop

Vintage Modern Jelly Roll

White Bella Solids Jelly Roll

Sky – Vintage Modern Cotton (yardage)

BATTING:

Soft n Natural

Extra Loft

Polyester

JoAnn Fabrics

DETAILS:

Quilted in straight lines, following pattern using white thread. Backed with polar fleece.

Top completed – December 2012

Blue & White - Hide ‘n’ Seek

PATTERN:

Hide ‘n’ Seek

From “Strip-Smart Quilts”

By Kathy Brown

2011

FABRIC:

Purchased from Fat Quarter Shop

Vintage Modern Jelly Roll

White Bella Solids Jelly Roll

Sky – Vintage Modern Cotton (yardage)

BATTING:

Soft n Natural

Extra Loft

Polyester

JoAnn Fabrics

DETAILS:

Quilted in straight lines, following pattern using white thread. Backed with polar fleece.

Top completed – October 2012

Red & White - Hide ‘n’ Seek

PATTERN:

Hide ‘n’ Seek

From “Strip-Smart Quilts”

By Kathy Brown

2011

FABRIC:

Purchased from Fat Quarter Shop

Vintage Modern Jelly Roll

White Bella Solids Jelly Roll

Sky – Vintage Modern Cotton (yardage)

BATTING:

Soft n Natural

Extra Loft

Polyester

JoAnn Fabrics

DETAILS:

Quilted in free-motion squiggles using white thread. Backed in white cotton, and bound with red cotton.

Top completed – September 2012

Hide ‘n’ Seek Quilt Notes

Hide ‘n’ Seek

From “Strip-Smart Quilts”

By Kathy Brown

2011

Adjustments for a Baby Quilt

Fabrics Needed:

2 ½” x 42” strips in bright colors or floral – 9 stripes for a baby quilt

2 ½” x 42” strips in white or plain fabric – 9 stripes for a baby quilt

Inside Border – Four 2” strips of plain fabric

Outside Border – Four 2” strips of floral fabric

Binding – Four 3 ½” strips of plain fabric

Backing - 1 1/4 yard of matching fabric

Make 36 blocks. (You will have left over triangles) Set them 6 x 6 for the quilt top, and then finish with thin borders and binding.

Wall Wedding Quilt

PATTERN:

Hot Cross

“Schnibbles times two”

Carrie Nelson

FABRIC:

So Sophie 10" Stacker by:
My Mind's Eye for Riley Blake Designs

Purchased from: Fat Quarter Shop

BACKING = 4 yards (wide quilt backing fabric)

Egyptian Cotton – White

Purchased from Nancy Notions online store

BATTING:

Warm and Natural

Natural cotton batting

JoAnn Fabrics

DETAILS:

Top completed – Jan 15, 2012

Quilting by – Karen Whitaker

Finished –  April 10, 2012

Scrap Quilt

I had a bunch of leftover scraps from a large quilt, and thought I would try and copy another quilt I saw. Just sewing together all the scraps into long stripes, and adding some sashing between them.

Friendship Star

Another baby quilt from left overs.

Free-motion quilted. I didn't like how that turned out. Should straight line quilt on the diaginal, next time.
It is easy to cut enough for more than one quilt.

Scrappy Nine Patch

I thought I would use some of my leftover Red and Gold fabric for a nine patch quilt. I did have to buy more fabrics at Jo Ann Crafts, but that almost always happens with scrap quilts.

Didn't turn out quilt as nice as I was thinking... but that is also the way quilting goes!

Scrap Nine Patch
Leftover Red and Gold, plus new red and creams purchased at Jo Ann Crafts in Madison
Free-motion quilted in red
Donated to Operation Top Knot (Soldiers' Angels)
Completed - August 2011

Wedding Chuppah

A Chuppah is a canopy under which a Jewish couple stands during their wedding ceremony.

Cream linen was machine embroidered using the Majolica Floral Thin Border and the Majolica Floral Corner along with a saying using a Script font.

Finished size - appox. 50" square

Completed – June, 2001

Border pattern

Corner pattern

The finished Chuppah

 

Amadala's Parade Gown

**Updated 24 October, 2011**

This outfit of Queen Amidala’s was worn at the end of Episode I when she gives the peace globe to Boss Nass. In the Star Wars world, the cloak is actually made to represent a type of flower that grows near Padme's hometown. The flower is very rare and blooms once every 88 years. They say it is one of the most beautiful sights in the galaxy and that's why Amidala's gown is designed to resemble the petals of the flower.

Measurements 

You will need good measurements of yourself to get a proper fit. Have a friend measure you. And keep those handy for the dress making process.

Patterns

If you are not an experienced seamstress, it would be helpful to start with a commercial pattern. The ideal dress pattern will be simple, with no darts or seams, a round neckline, and straight sleeves. And a simple cloak pattern to use for pedal covered cape. No patterns will be perfect, so choose ones that are as close as you can get. Be sure to check the measurements on the back of the package, and pick the size that will best fit you.

Example - These patterns have all the basic requirements; and with just a few alterations, will be screen accurate.

Fabrics 

The dress is made of silk; the tabard in the front is of the same fabric. The sleeves are of a sheer fabric (probably a silk as well). The cape was made of chiffon or organza probably over silk, with the parasol of the same fabric. Satin or polyester fabrics can be good alternates for the dress. Be sure whatever you choose you can wash and iron. No matter how careful you are, you will get something on the dress and then need to clean it.

The overall color has been very difficult to determine since it appears different based on the light and camera used. In the film and most promo photographs the dress appears to be white, so that is what is generally accepted and used when recreating this costume. The cape is generally considered a shade of ivory with pink and yellow highlights.

The Dress –

You can make a copy of your dress pattern by laying tissue paper over the pattern, then tracing the pattern onto the tissue. This will give you a copy you can cut and alter as needed. Not only will you need to alter the pattern to fit you, but you may need to lower the neckline, eliminate any seams or darts, lengthen the dress and/or sleeves, and be sure there is a closure in the back to make taking the garment off easier. This is why a copy is very handy, so you will always have your original pattern to go back to.

With no darts or seams in the dress this should be a fairly easy garment to construct. You’ll want it fitted to you, but not TIGHT. Don’t worry if you’re not the same size or shape as the actress in the movie, what matters is the overall look on you. If needed small darts can be added in the bust area to help with fitting, but keep in mind the cape going over the dress will hide just about everything.

You’ll need a nice, low, rounded neckline. But be sure it’s not too low! You shouldn’t feel uncomfortable while wearing the dress.

The sleeves can be simple straight sleeves, that go just past your wrist. These aren’t ever really seen in the movie, and with the cape covering your arms, not much will show on you either.

Tabard –

This is the piece of fabric that hangs down the front of the gown. It’s much like a long tie. A shape that can be easily drawn with a long ruler, so it can be fitted to the costumer. It will cover the very bottom of the neckline, and go to about the costumer’s knee.

It is decorated with stylized Naboo royal symbols in light yellow with a gray outline. The color can be added with fabric paints, dyes, or airbrushing.

A close up of the Tabard taken while the costume was on exhibit in Paris.

 

 

You can draft a pattern out of tissue paper, craft paper, pattern paper, or even gift-wrapping paper. Once you have your piece of fabric selected, cover the back with a good iron-on interfacing. It will help make it stiff. The edges can be turned under using double sided iron-on interfacing. Look for it in the fabric store as a small roll about 5/8 inch wide. Transfer your symbols using charcoal pencil, carbon paper, or fabric marker. And paint. You can attach the tabard with snaps near the top, so it will be removable, but stay in place while wearing it.

One interpretation. Scaling may be needed to fit the costumer.

A completed tabard.

Cape-

The original seams to have been made with chiffon or organza pedals that were hand painted, with the edges left raw. And is held on with matching ties that go over the wearers shoulders, then tie under the cape in the back. The pedals are large on the bottom and get progressively smaller towards the neckline.

 

Some costumers create their cape with a good base fabric of heavy cotton, polyester, or silk. Then use already dyed sheer fabrics in light pink, light yellow, and cream. Some finish the edges, some don’t. If you want to dye your own fabric; some costumers will do that in large batches, dying about half the fabric (widthwise) pink, and the about the other half or 1/3 yellow. Then cut the pedals out. Randomizing the size and where it’s cut from can help create a more random look. Hand dying can be done by cutting the pedals; then applying the dye using a large soft brush and a light touch, or an airbrush.

A pattern for cutting out the pedals.

A finished cloak made from pre-dyed sheer fabric in pink, yellow, and cream.

Airbrushed pedals -  By Robert Kohn.

However you choose to create your cape, it should have a random or natural look to it. This is supposed to represent a flower. There should not be a solid pink section, nor a solid yellow or cream section.

 

Parasol -

The large collar attached near the back of the neck, is commonly referred to as the parasol. It’s been very difficult to determine just how the original was made. It’s clear that the same fabric from the cape was applied over a circular wire frame work that has 20 “spokes”; silver finials were applied to the ends of the wires; scrollwork decorations were stitched in some type of sparkly thread; and transparent beads are attached on the outer edge of the side that rests against the wearer (the front). How to put that all together has been quite the conundrum!

Original parasol - from the front, side, back.

Some costumers weld together the framework and cover it with fabric, then apply the decoration with paint and glue on self-made plastic finials. Others use floral or craft wire between the layers of fabric, making sure to keep the finials light-weight so the top section does not get weighed down.

If you are planning on only using the costume a few times, using floral or craft wire may be better as it’s easy and inexpensive to purchase. If you plan on using the costume repeatedly for years to come, it may be better to invest in having someone help you create a good, sturdy wire frame to work off of, as you’ll want something that will hold up to storage, wear, and travel.

The original appears to be made from Millinery wire (hat wire). Which can be purchased through hat making companies, which you should be able to find through an internet search. It can be cut with good wire cutters, and can be joined with basic thread. Spokes can also be made from other types stiff wire - from umbrellas to bicycle wheel spokes. Just look around and see what you can find!

Spoke placement guide, for a parasol with 20 spokes.

The design can be applied with paint, paint pen, machine or hand stitched. You'll want to adjust the length to match the size of your parasol. Each one should be just a little bit different. Rotating through 4 or 5 patterns gives a look that each is different, but allows you to use templates.

Parasol patterns - will need to adjust to fit the width of your parasol.

Finials can be made from clay, plastic, or even beads. They need to be metallic silver in color, which you can do with paint, or purchasing items in silver. For consistent finials, make a mold. This will greatly help make all your finials consistent in size and shape, and cut down on the time to make them.

Cast finials -  Sculped by Robert Kohn.

 A completed Parasol made from floral wire, sheer fabric, fabric paint, clay finials, and clear seed beads.

Forehead Jewelry –

The original costume features what appears to be a piece of vintage rhinestone jewelry at the forehead.

 

Some costumers are lucky enough to find a vintage piece that works for this, or have a friend that is a jeweler and can make a replica. For the rest of us, we’ll need to make something on our own.

Quality beads can be found at your local craft store, or at online bead suppliers. If you’ve never beaded before, doing some reading on it would help, and beginner books should be available at your local library or bookstore.

Be sure to select quality materials, as this is not something you want tarnishing or breaking on you. 

 

 


Completed Versions -

First completed costume.

Second completed costume.

I do want to thank Maggie over at Padawan's Guide for the work she puts into her site. I get a lot of info and reference images from there. If you want to see more, check out her site: http://www.padawansguide.com/